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Fingering
Charts |
Scale and Rhythm Sheets |
Instrument Care |
Flute
After playing each day, wipe the entire
length of the flute with a clean polishing cloth. Be careful
not to scratch the keys or tear the pads. Remove the headjoint.
Insert a clean cloth or handkerchief into the slot at the
tip of the cleaning rod. Draw the cloth and cleaning rod
through the flute to remove any moisture from the pads.
Place the flute back in the case, laying the cloth flat
over the body of the flute to allow it to dry. About once
a month, apply one drop of key oil to all rod endings (you
will see a tiny line at the end of each rod), being careful
not to get any oil on the pads, as it will damage them.
About once a year, the flute may need to be polished. Silver
polish will work nicely; just be careful not to use too
much polish, as it is extremely difficult to get out of
tight spaces. Also be careful not to get any polish on the
pads, as it will damage them. If you do notice any damage
to the pads, have a professional repair technician replace
them immediately.
Oboe
After playing each day, wipe the entire
length of the oboe with a clean, dry cloth. Be careful not
to scratch the keys or tear the pads. Draw the swap through
the oboe from TOP to BOTTOM. This is important--this will
prevent you from catching the swab on the post on the interior
of the oboe body. If the swab does get stuck--STOP! Do NOT
keep pulling. Take your oboe immediately to a repair technician.
If the swap is wedged too tightly, the technician will need
to cut apart your swab to remove it from your oboe. About
once a month, apply one drop of key oil to all rod endings
(you will see a tiny line at the end of each rod), being
careful not to get any oil on the pads, as it will damage
them. Do not try to polish the oboe. If the keys need polishing,
take your oboe to a repair shop. If you notice any torn
or worn pads, take your oboe to the shop immediately.
Clarinet
After playing each day, wipe the entire
length of the clarinet with a clean, dry cloth. Be careful
not to scratch the keys or tear the pads. Remove the reed
and dry it with a clean cloth. Place the reed in a reed
case. Draw the swab through the mouthpiece to absorb the
moisture. Put the mouthpiece cap on the mouthpiece and place
it in the case. Draw the swab through the bell of the clarinet
and out the barrel of the clarinet to remove the moisture.
The tenon joints tend to collect the most moisture, which
could severely damage wood clarinets. Be sure to dry these
areas completely. About once a month, apply one drop of
key oil to all rod endings (you will see a tiny line at
the end of each rod), being careful not to get any oil on
the pads, as it will damage them. Do not try to polish the
clarinet. If the keys need polishing, take your clarinet
to a repair shop. If you notice any torn or worn pads, take
your clarinet to the shop immediately.
Saxophone
Same as clarinet
Trumpet, French Horn, Baritone, Tuba
After playing each day, wipe the instrument
with a clean polishing cloth. Note: Never use a silver polishing
cloth on a lacquer (gold) instrument. Conversely, never
use a lacquer polishing cloth on a silver instrument. Oil
the keys or valves about twice a week (maybe more if needed).
Be sure to only remove one valve at a time so the valves
do not get switched. After replacing each valve, blow air
through the instrument to make sure the valve is facing
the right direction. If the instrument seems difficult to
blow freely, turn the valve around 180 degrees. Grease all
tuning slides about once a month. If the grease becomes
sticky, it is dirty, and needs to be removed with a towel
and replaced with new, clean grease. When greasing the tuning
slides, use a non water-based grease. Water-based greases
(like petroleum jelly) will evaporate after a few days.
About once a year, the instrument should
be given a bath. The water should be lukewarm. If the water
is too hot, it will remove the lacquer from the instrument
and destroy the shiny finish. After removing all valves
and slides, run a "snake" through all portions of your instrument.
"Snakes" are long brushes that you feed through the tubing
of your instrument. Dry the instrument with a soft towel,
being careful not to scratch the surface. Do not try to
polish your instrument--the wrong kind of polish can ruin
the finish of your instrument. One successful alternative
is to spray Original Lemon Pledge on your instrument, then
wipe it dry. Pledge will remove fingerprints and dust that
collect on your instrument.
Trombone
For general instrument care, observe the
directions listed for Trumpet. etc.,. The only difference
is the care to the main slide of the trombone. There are
many lubricating systems for trombone slides. Basically,
the slide should drop freely to the floor if the slide lock
is released...if this is not the case, then the trombone
needs either dent work or more (or better) lubrication.
The system most beginners use is to simply use oil (clear)
or liquid cream (white). More advanced players may use a
synthetic oil or a combination of cold cream and water.
Never mix systems. If you change systems, be sure to remove
the first system entirely, which usually means giving your
trombone a bath. Whenever you remove the outer slide from
the inner slide, be very careful not to drop or hit the
slide on anything, as even the slightest dent will render
the slide inoperable.
Snare Drum
IF YOUR SNARE DOES NOT SOUND CRISP
If the snares continue to "buzz" after the
initial stroke, then the snares are not pulled tightly against
the drum head. The first step is to tighten the tension
screw on the side of the snare drum. If the screw will not
pull the snares any tighter, then you should completely
loosen the snares and pull the slack snare cords through
the strainer plate more firmly. Tighten the strainer plate,
then adjust the tension screw.
If the snare still has an extra buzz, then
you need to "bridge" the snare cords. This is done by inserting
a toothpick, match, or nail under the outside snare cords,
but over the middle cords.
CHANGING A DRUM HEAD
If the top (batter) or bottom (snare) head
tears, rips, or breaks, it needs to be replaced. Remove
the hoop by loosening the hoop screws. Replace the head
and the hoop. Hand tighten all hoop screws until they are
firm. Use your drum key to continue to tighten the hoop
screws, two revolutions at a time. After tightening the
first screw, move across the drum head to the opposite screw,
like changing a tire. Continue moving across the drumhead
until all screws are tightened at the same tension. The
head will stretch from the counter hoop as you tighten it.
Tighten again after a few days to allow the head to "settle."
Mallets -- General Information
Never use the instrument as a trap table
Always leave the instrument covered
Always use the right mallets
When moving it, always lift it over cracks, bumps, and thresholds
BELLS
Clean with metal polish
Replace worn felts, rubber spacers, and the suspension cord
as necessary
Replace any screws that become loose or are bent
MARIMBA, XYLOPHONES
Polish bars with a furniture polish with
no wax
Dust the resonators and frame
Vacuum the resonators
Check the pitch of the resonators with the pitch of the
bar. The resonator caps can be adjusted if the two pitches
do not match. Consult a professional to adjust the resonator
caps.
Replace the spacers and suspension cord and replace as necessary.
Never use plastic-acrylic mallets on a rosewood xylophone
or marimba. Use polyethylene or rosewood mallets to prevent
damaging the bars.
Cymbals
Use a commercial cymbal cleaning polish-do
not use an abrasive cleaning polish
Wipe the polish on and off following the grooves of the
cymbal
If the cymbal cracks, drill a hold at the end of the crack
and file the edges to prevent extra vibrations.
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Selecting Reeds |
Reeds
tend to be very inconsistent because most reeds are made from
natural cane plant, and every plant is unique. Synthetic reeds
sacrifice tone quality for durability, and generally should
not be used beyond the first year of playing (except under special
circumstances, like marching band). When you are buying reeds,
you should consider the following:
Beginners start on soft reeds because they
produce a tone easily (2 or S)
Within the first year of playing, most
players should move up to the next strength (2 1/2 or MS)
Within the second year of playing, most
players again move up to the next strength (3 or M)
If the reed is too soft, it will play flat
(below normal pitch)
If the reed is too hard, it will not respond
well.
Reed strengths are not universal from brand
to brand...each company has its own standards. For example,
a Vandoren 2 1/2 is equivalent to a Rico 3.
Every reed needs to be "broken in"-never
play a reed right out of the box
Invest in reed making or reed adjusting
equipment...it will save you lots of money in the long run
Next to the reed, the mouthpiece has the
greatest influence on your sound. Consider upgrading around
seventh grade.
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