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Fingering Charts
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Scale and Rhythm Sheets
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Instrument Care

Flute

After playing each day, wipe the entire length of the flute with a clean polishing cloth. Be careful not to scratch the keys or tear the pads. Remove the headjoint. Insert a clean cloth or handkerchief into the slot at the tip of the cleaning rod. Draw the cloth and cleaning rod through the flute to remove any moisture from the pads. Place the flute back in the case, laying the cloth flat over the body of the flute to allow it to dry. About once a month, apply one drop of key oil to all rod endings (you will see a tiny line at the end of each rod), being careful not to get any oil on the pads, as it will damage them. About once a year, the flute may need to be polished. Silver polish will work nicely; just be careful not to use too much polish, as it is extremely difficult to get out of tight spaces. Also be careful not to get any polish on the pads, as it will damage them. If you do notice any damage to the pads, have a professional repair technician replace them immediately.

Oboe

After playing each day, wipe the entire length of the oboe with a clean, dry cloth. Be careful not to scratch the keys or tear the pads. Draw the swap through the oboe from TOP to BOTTOM. This is important--this will prevent you from catching the swab on the post on the interior of the oboe body. If the swab does get stuck--STOP! Do NOT keep pulling. Take your oboe immediately to a repair technician. If the swap is wedged too tightly, the technician will need to cut apart your swab to remove it from your oboe. About once a month, apply one drop of key oil to all rod endings (you will see a tiny line at the end of each rod), being careful not to get any oil on the pads, as it will damage them. Do not try to polish the oboe. If the keys need polishing, take your oboe to a repair shop. If you notice any torn or worn pads, take your oboe to the shop immediately.

Clarinet

After playing each day, wipe the entire length of the clarinet with a clean, dry cloth. Be careful not to scratch the keys or tear the pads. Remove the reed and dry it with a clean cloth. Place the reed in a reed case. Draw the swab through the mouthpiece to absorb the moisture. Put the mouthpiece cap on the mouthpiece and place it in the case. Draw the swab through the bell of the clarinet and out the barrel of the clarinet to remove the moisture. The tenon joints tend to collect the most moisture, which could severely damage wood clarinets. Be sure to dry these areas completely. About once a month, apply one drop of key oil to all rod endings (you will see a tiny line at the end of each rod), being careful not to get any oil on the pads, as it will damage them. Do not try to polish the clarinet. If the keys need polishing, take your clarinet to a repair shop. If you notice any torn or worn pads, take your clarinet to the shop immediately.

Saxophone

Same as clarinet

Trumpet, French Horn, Baritone, Tuba

After playing each day, wipe the instrument with a clean polishing cloth. Note: Never use a silver polishing cloth on a lacquer (gold) instrument. Conversely, never use a lacquer polishing cloth on a silver instrument. Oil the keys or valves about twice a week (maybe more if needed). Be sure to only remove one valve at a time so the valves do not get switched. After replacing each valve, blow air through the instrument to make sure the valve is facing the right direction. If the instrument seems difficult to blow freely, turn the valve around 180 degrees. Grease all tuning slides about once a month. If the grease becomes sticky, it is dirty, and needs to be removed with a towel and replaced with new, clean grease. When greasing the tuning slides, use a non water-based grease. Water-based greases (like petroleum jelly) will evaporate after a few days.

About once a year, the instrument should be given a bath. The water should be lukewarm. If the water is too hot, it will remove the lacquer from the instrument and destroy the shiny finish. After removing all valves and slides, run a "snake" through all portions of your instrument. "Snakes" are long brushes that you feed through the tubing of your instrument. Dry the instrument with a soft towel, being careful not to scratch the surface. Do not try to polish your instrument--the wrong kind of polish can ruin the finish of your instrument. One successful alternative is to spray Original Lemon Pledge on your instrument, then wipe it dry. Pledge will remove fingerprints and dust that collect on your instrument.

Trombone

For general instrument care, observe the directions listed for Trumpet. etc.,. The only difference is the care to the main slide of the trombone. There are many lubricating systems for trombone slides. Basically, the slide should drop freely to the floor if the slide lock is released...if this is not the case, then the trombone needs either dent work or more (or better) lubrication. The system most beginners use is to simply use oil (clear) or liquid cream (white). More advanced players may use a synthetic oil or a combination of cold cream and water. Never mix systems. If you change systems, be sure to remove the first system entirely, which usually means giving your trombone a bath. Whenever you remove the outer slide from the inner slide, be very careful not to drop or hit the slide on anything, as even the slightest dent will render the slide inoperable.


Snare Drum

IF YOUR SNARE DOES NOT SOUND CRISP

If the snares continue to "buzz" after the initial stroke, then the snares are not pulled tightly against the drum head. The first step is to tighten the tension screw on the side of the snare drum. If the screw will not pull the snares any tighter, then you should completely loosen the snares and pull the slack snare cords through the strainer plate more firmly. Tighten the strainer plate, then adjust the tension screw.

If the snare still has an extra buzz, then you need to "bridge" the snare cords. This is done by inserting a toothpick, match, or nail under the outside snare cords, but over the middle cords.

CHANGING A DRUM HEAD

If the top (batter) or bottom (snare) head tears, rips, or breaks, it needs to be replaced. Remove the hoop by loosening the hoop screws. Replace the head and the hoop. Hand tighten all hoop screws until they are firm. Use your drum key to continue to tighten the hoop screws, two revolutions at a time. After tightening the first screw, move across the drum head to the opposite screw, like changing a tire. Continue moving across the drumhead until all screws are tightened at the same tension. The head will stretch from the counter hoop as you tighten it. Tighten again after a few days to allow the head to "settle."

Mallets -- General Information

Never use the instrument as a trap table
Always leave the instrument covered
Always use the right mallets
When moving it, always lift it over cracks, bumps, and thresholds

BELLS

Clean with metal polish
Replace worn felts, rubber spacers, and the suspension cord as necessary
Replace any screws that become loose or are bent

MARIMBA, XYLOPHONES

Polish bars with a furniture polish with no wax
Dust the resonators and frame
Vacuum the resonators
Check the pitch of the resonators with the pitch of the bar. The resonator caps can be adjusted if the two pitches do not match. Consult a professional to adjust the resonator caps.
Replace the spacers and suspension cord and replace as necessary.
Never use plastic-acrylic mallets on a rosewood xylophone or marimba. Use polyethylene or rosewood mallets to prevent damaging the bars.

Cymbals

Use a commercial cymbal cleaning polish-do not use an abrasive cleaning polish
Wipe the polish on and off following the grooves of the cymbal
If the cymbal cracks, drill a hold at the end of the crack and file the edges to prevent extra vibrations.

 

Selecting Reeds
Reeds tend to be very inconsistent because most reeds are made from natural cane plant, and every plant is unique. Synthetic reeds sacrifice tone quality for durability, and generally should not be used beyond the first year of playing (except under special circumstances, like marching band). When you are buying reeds, you should consider the following:
  • Beginners start on soft reeds because they produce a tone easily (2 or S)
  • Within the first year of playing, most players should move up to the next strength (2 1/2 or MS)
  • Within the second year of playing, most players again move up to the next strength (3 or M)
  • If the reed is too soft, it will play flat (below normal pitch)
  • If the reed is too hard, it will not respond well.
  • Reed strengths are not universal from brand to brand...each company has its own standards. For example, a Vandoren 2 1/2 is equivalent to a Rico 3.
  • Every reed needs to be "broken in"-never play a reed right out of the box
  • Invest in reed making or reed adjusting equipment...it will save you lots of money in the long run
  • Next to the reed, the mouthpiece has the greatest influence on your sound. Consider upgrading around seventh grade.
  • © 2007 by NCUSD #203
    Created: December 18, 2000
    Last Update: